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House Training, Lead Training, Sit-Stay, Barking, Chewing.


 Aquiring a puppy

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Make training FUN for both yourself and the dog.. 
This is a time to teach and bond.
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
















 

Anyone remember Barbara Woodhouse ?

 <giggle>

 

 

 

 

 "Gooood boy" 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


We are not going in-depth with training methods as each dog is different and the subject itself can take an entire Web Site. 
Here are a few basic training tips and advice for the most common issues of introducing a new puppy into the household.  
If we refer to the puppy as a 'he' its nothing sexist, just easier.. :-) 
Try to keep 'Training' informal and think of it as 'Behaviour Shaping' !  

Brief History of Wolf / Dog

Firstly a little about the origins of the dog to help you understand what you are dealing with. 
The forebear of the dog is the wolf. All canines - wolves, jackals, foxes, coyotes, etc have a strong 'family' sense. They live in 'packs' and have a strict 'pecking order'. The dog has existed for thousand of years and even today it retains many of the behaviours of its ancestor. 

Taking one dog from a litter does not alter that instinct. It is still a pack animal. The difference now being that it is no longer in a canine pack, but a human / canine pack. To the dog we are just another animal.. A complicated one, that acts differently, but still an animal. 

In the wild the Sire (father and pack leader) and Dam (mother) of the pup teach correct behaviour and discipline. 
With a dog the pup usually only has the Dam  and the breeder to teach it, and this teaching is limited.. This is where the new family have to take over. To become the new pack, and more importantly the new pack leader !!   

The Early Days / Weeks

The most important weeks to you, as a owner of a new puppy, are weeks 7 to 16 (known as the socialisation period).    

The first days of a puppy's life in a new home are quite daunting for him. Suddenly he is ripped away from his mother and litter mates, and placed in strange surroundings with complete strangers and strange smells. The household routine is different, and at night he is alone and in the dark. 
So what can we do to make him feel safe and secure again ?

When you first collect the puppy, place him in the car where you want him to travel. i.e: a box or a crate, or a blanket behind a seat etc.  Many people have the puppy on the lap of the front seat passenger, and have it there for many journeys until it gets too big or inconvenient. Then the wonder why it barks, moves about and tries to clamber back into the front when you place it elsewhere in the car. This is not only a nuisance, but also dangerous whilst driving.    


Try to collect the puppy when you have a some days free to spend time with him.. perhaps a weekend off work. 
Give him lots of cuddles and attention, but don't spoil him rotten.. Start as you mean to go on !! 
As much as possible, introduce the puppy to the lifestyle that it is going to have.  

Do Not
think of the puppy as a' baby' other than for the housetraining and initial settling in. 
During these early weeks the puppy is going to develop mentally rapidly and it is programmed to learn. Avoid any severe frightening experiences as things happening at this stage stay forever. (Re-homing is not a severe frightening experience although it may seem that way!)
 

Tip:
When you arrive home don't take the puppy immediately into the house, even if you have excited children waiting. Take him to an area of the yard or garden that you want him to use as a toilet. After the journey he will probably want to go anyway, so have it happen in the right place, and not on your carpet! 

* 
Ask the breeder for some of the food he has been fed on, and don't change his diet straight away. If you must change his diet, do it slowly, mixing in a little of his original food with the new food (see Diet
Make his bed in the kitchen (this saves the lounge carpet during house training!) and keep his bed, food and newspaper (for wee-ing on!) close together (see Housetraining) 


*  At night leave a small light on. Also a radio on low will help him think he is not alone. Taking a blanket to the breeder to get the smell of his litter mates on is also a good idea. 
He will cry at night, and this can last anything from a few days to a week or so. DON'T be tempted to bring him into your bedroom unless you want him there permanently. This is where you feel cruel, but its best to leave him or go to him as few times as possible. He will soon learn that you will go back to him in the morning.. Trust me !! 

Perhaps its also a good idea to buy the neighbours a bottle of wine at this time too !! ;-)   


* As with a new baby, its also a good idea to get down on all fours and see the house from the dogs view (seriously!!).. and then move anything that you do not want broken, knocked over or chewed !  
DO NOT give in to him with anything that you do not want him to do. Dogs like to live in packs.. The new family is his 'pack' and you must be 'top dog'! Be firm but loving. He will enjoy being trained and will reward you with his loyalty.  

Most of all remember that he is a baby and try to understand how he must be feeling in this initial settling in stage. It will not be long before he thinks of you as the best thing since chopped liver !   


* Introduce the puppy to as many things as possible that he will have to live with, i.e: The vacuum cleaner, mop, radio, television, washing machine etc (that can be fun when he tries to chase and savage the mop!!) 
Introduce him to other family pets or take to a veterinary puppy  socialising session to meet other animals. Puppies introduced to cats at an early stage will accept them as part of the norm..

* Put a collar on him and let him get used to wearing it, even before he has had his vaccinations and can go outside. The puppy may scratch at it from time to time, but will be easily distracted. 

A Puppy has so much to learn in such a short time.

Play Fighting

Puppies play together and do a lot of play fighting. This isn't aggression, its a learning experience. Testing themselves and getting some exercise, just like children! If you watch puppies play you will see a number of dog behaviours - stalking, chasing, tracking, hiding, pouncing etc..  
You can 'play fight' with your puppy. Its a game he understands. 
Extend you finger and thumb like a 'beak' - this is your 'bite'. Use both hands and you have two 'bites'. Any puppy can cope with fighting two others. Three are too many. 
When you puppy 'attacks' your hand you can 'attack' its rear with your other hand - as he turns to retaliate the second 'attacker' can come in and 'attack' the back of his neck. 
Be careful though as a puppy has got very sharp teeth. Roll him over onto his back and pin him down - it is the submissive position. Your puppy is learning that you are bigger and stronger than he is ( and therefore Top Dog!) .


When dogs roll onto their backs it is passive submission. Puppies often do it to get their tummies tickled :-) and it quickly becomes active submission. 
Don't overdo the play fighting and don't let it become serious fighting.  Stop if the puppy starts to get serious. 
If  he growls, listen it it. You will soon learn the difference between a serious and a play growl! 
When the puppy's bites hurt yell 'ouch' and 'No' let him know he is biting too hard. You need to control that bite.  With some puppies it may be necessary to stop the play for a few minutes. Introduce the word 'gently' to control the 'bite'  and over the weeks the puppy will learn to mouth without hurting.     

Words

Puppies / Dogs learn certain words over due course of time, but they communicate by body language and sounds i.e: facial expressions, looks in the eye, in addition to their barks, growls etc.

Learn to use three voices. To give a command make it matter of fact
. (Adjust tone to suit the dog). To praise use a soft / light voice. To reprimand use a deeper, even growling, voice.

A dog does not understand sentences.. so something like "come on Poppy dear. come to mummy" will go totally ignored as the dog thinks "what she on about".  Keep instructions simple. One word even, and adjust the tone accordingly. Looking at the dog and one word "come" or at the most "Poppy (to get the attention) Come". Use body language to signify what you want, in this example, pat your knees or point to the floor in front of you.. Don't use different words for the same command, and don't change body language for that command.
Don't confuse the dog.  

Socialising

Its a great pity that at a time when your puppy is most receptive to learning, he cannot be taken out due to the vaccinations. However, you can take them out in the car . Carry them to where they can meet people, i.e: carry them to the school to pick up the children, or a supermarket etc. A lot of people will stop and and stroke him even if he is tucked inside your coat. 

**  Positive Training  **

Reward Good Behaviour. Have tiny titbits ready, and I mean tiny! I like to use pieces of cooked chopped liver (dog loves it!) 
Call the puppy to you quite a lot (remember, no long sentences) "Brewster, come
" is sufficient. Give him a titbit and praise with a soft voice "Gooood boy" (Anyone remember Barbara Woodhouse ? <giggle> ) 
Teach him to sit, lie down, stand etc on command.. Use single commands "Sit" "Down" "Stand" etc. 

Remember to use each command word exclusively for one thing!

Progress to teaching him to stay in these positions "Sit, Stay". Call him after short varying periods on time, and praise. When he is older and can go out, repeat these exercises in various locations and circumstances i.e: traffic, children etc (make sure there are no other dogs or distractions).  Slowly introduce distractions as the training progresses. 
When out walking make a point of stopping at kerbs (even if there is no traffic) and command the dog to "Stay" or "Wait" , and look to see if the road is clear to cross. If clear command the dog to "walk". 


Note: If you intend to exhibit the dog Do Not train him to sit as soon as you stop walking, as in the show ring this could disqualify you!  

Take you time - Don't try to rush things. Puppies learn at different rates. Work within his capabilities. You are aiming for the 'final product' and will not get this in a 6 week training course! Most importantly make training FUN for both yourself and the dog.. This is a time to teach and bond.  

Most dogs have a fantastic nose (sense of smell). Make use of this by hiding something with your scent on and letting him find it. Make it obviously easy at first and increase the difficulty over time. You will be amazed how much fun your dog will get out of this 'game'. Be sure that the puppy always finds the article, even if it means cheating a little, and always reward his success.   

Discipline

When a puppy does something naughty, perhaps chewing something, and you see it doing so, you have the perfect opportunity to teach discipline. I don't not mean harsh or severe punishment, but letting it know the difference between acceptable and unacceptable behaviour. 

Offering Paw

The behaviour of young puppies is somewhat predictable. Certain things they do can be annoying to us humans especially if we do not realise what is going on. Many pups 'offer a paw' to make contact with us. This can hurt if they are a bit too rough or have sharp claws, but the action is a 'submissive' one

          House Training                    

As mentioned earlier.. Start by letting the puppy live in the kitchen (Not very hygenic I know, but at least it doesn't ruin the lounge carpet!). Keep his bed, food bowl and newspaper close together.  Puppies cannot 'hold it'.. He is a baby and when he thinks about having a wee he has already done it ! He will need the toilet on waking up, and after being fed (hence the reason for keeping everything close together!) 

When you first get up, greet the puppy, then put him outside. He will be excited to see you and this may start him urinating. 
Take him to an outside area where you want him to do his toilet, and stay with him. When he has done his stuff, praise him and reward with a titbit. You can eventually train your dog to go on command if needed, but be careful what command word you chose ;-) (and don't choose a word that is in common use in the house!)  To do this use a command word as the dog starts to do his business. He will soon learn that "perform" (or whatever word) means he has to wee. 
If the pup does not 'perform', take him back inside and then try again after a few minutes.  


Overnight, put some newspaper on the floor, near the door where you want him to go out.  Gradually reduce the paper as the dog improves. 

* Put him outside at regular intervals and especially after feeding (he will not bark to go outside at this stage..)  Make a habit of taking him out through the same door, so that he knows the routine, and will one day go to that door when he needs to go to the toilet, so watch out for that.
If you see him about to perform where he shouldn't, call his name firmly - you may just stop the action - use "outside" command, then put him outside where you want the toilet to be. Wait with him, then praise when he has done his stuff. 
If you are too late and the pup has made a mess - take him outside - and return to quietly clean up the mess. 
    

Tip: Turning around in circles is a sign that he will go to the toilet (goes back to the wild and checking for snakes in the grass before the act!)

Praise him if he does his business outside or on newspaper.. IGNORE any accidents elsewhere (would you like your nose rubbing in it if you pee-d yourself by 
accident !!) 

Gradually, over the weeks, move the newspaper closer to the backdoor and eventually outside. Put some soiled paper where you want the toilet to be, during the day. The smell will attract him.  
On average it can take up to 6 months to house train a dog to be clean during the day, and longer to go throughout the night.  

Unfortunately about 10% of dogs eat their own faeces, some dogs eat ANY faeces. Although humans find this disgusting, to a dog its quite acceptable.. Yuck !!! It is not a thing you can 'cure' easily - if at all. Cleaning up quickly can help prevent it.
 
 

     Lead Training (see also 'Positive Training')

Having got it used to wearing a collar we need to attach a lead to it and teach it to walk without pulling. Don't delay. This can start prior to vaccinations by walking around your own garden! 
  

More training advice soon. please visit again. Thankyou 

If you have any training tips..Or just want some advice..
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